Mastering the Art of Precision

In my latest Monday night dressmaking class journey, I ventured deeper into the realm of precision and customisation. Following up from our previous lesson where I meticulously altered my skirt pattern to match my body measurements, this week was all about translating those adjustments into reality through a calico mock-up.

But before diving into the cutting and stitching, we embarked on what's known as a crepe fit. For those unfamiliar, a crepe fit involves pinning your pattern paper directly onto your body to ensure a perfect fit before cutting into the fabric. It's a crucial step in the dressmaking process, allowing us to identify any potential issues early on and make necessary adjustments without wasting our precious fabric.

With the crepe fit deemed successful, it was time to tackle the calico mock-up. For me, this part of the process presented its own set of challenges, particularly when it came to pinning the pattern to the fabric. Aligning the pattern to the grainline (grain) and selvage proved to be quite the tedious task.

Yoke Front (Right) pattern pinned to calico

Seen next to a previous cut of the same shape. Two cuts were required as part of the pattern instructions.

Left Front skirt pattern

Seen weight down with weights to stop pattern from moving during pinning process.

For those who might be new to these terms, let me provide some clarification:

1. Grainline: In sewing, the grainline or grain refers to the direction of the threads in a fabric. It's crucial to align your pattern pieces with the grainline to ensure that your garment hangs properly and maintains its shape over time. Sewing against the grainline can result in distortion and an ill-fitting final product.

2. Selvage: The selvage is the tightly woven edge of the fabric that runs parallel to the grainline. It's often more tightly woven than the rest of the fabric and typically features information such as the fabric's brand, designer, and sometimes even a decorative edge. The selvage should be used as a reference point when laying out and cutting your pattern pieces.

Final set of calico pieces cut.

Despite the challenges, I persisted, and by the end of the class, all of my pieces were neatly cut and ready to be assembled. It's amazing how each step in the dressmaking process brings us closer to our final creation. I'm excited to see my skirt take shape in the coming weeks, and I'll be sure to keep you all updated on my progress.

Until next time, happy sewing!